Turkey Enchiladas with Chipotle Crema Sauce

 

 

You know what they say about too much of a good thing…after three nights of roast turkey and turkey leftovers, I’m approaching that point.  That’s not to say that I’m quite ready to abandon turkey, but I’m ready to give a break to the roasted, savory flavors of my Thanksgiving meal and traditional leftover recipes.  I love a Thanksgiving dinner and the traditional sides, as do I love day-after Turkey Tetrazzini.  This year, I also made Turkey pot pies. But, now, I’m ready to kick things up a notch.  This menu planning swerve takes us south of the border, or at least up to the border, with a Tex-Mex flair.  In the choice of enchiladas, the comfort food angle of the weekend turkey eating marathon remains.  Indeed, how much more comfort can you get than from cream and cheese?  The difference now is Mexican crema and Monterrey Jack cheese.  But to really interest the palette, to get a little salsa in our step, to get our mariachis moving, we go with chipotle peppers and adobo sauce.  Chipotle peppers are fun, they’re hip, and they even supply a smoky flavor that can continue a Thanksgiving theme.  Enchiladas are fun and easy to make.  So Feliz Day After Thanksgiving!  Serves 4.

    

Ingredients:

½ cup olive oil

1 large yellow onion, diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 1/2 cups water

1 chipotle chili, seeded and diced, along with 1 tsp of adobo sauce

1 cup Mexican crema

1 can diced tomatoes, drained

2 cups cooked turkey, cut into ½ inch pieces

salt/pepper

8 six inch corn tortillas

1 cup shredded Monterrey Jack cheese

    

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.  In a medium saute pan over medium-high heat, add 1 tbsp oil.  When hot, add half of the onions and soften a few minutes.  Add 1 clove minced garlic and carefully add the water.  Boil a few minutes to thicken slightly.  Lower the heat to warm and stir in the crema and ½ to all of the chipotle chili and adobo sauce, depending on desired level of heat.  Heat 1 tbsp of oil in a large saute pan over medium heat.  Add the other half of the onions and cook to soften, about 5 minutes.  Add 1 clove minced garlic and salt and pepper as desired for taste.  Add the tomatoes, turkey and ½ cup of the crema sauce.  Stir the turkey mixture and cook a few minutes to warm through.  Lower the heat to warm.  In a medium saute pan, heat the remaining oil over medium heat.  For each tortilla, add one at a time to the oil and cook for 10 seconds.  Turn over the tortilla and cook another 10 seconds.  Then dredge the tortilla through the crema pan, coating each side lightly.  Lay the tortilla in a 9 x 12 inch baking dish.  Spoon several tbsp of the chicken mixture and a tbsp of the shredded cheese into the tortilla, fold the tortilla sides on top of each other and then roll the enchilada over so that the overlapping edges are on the bottom.  Slide the enchilada over to the edge of the dish.  Repeat with the remaining tortillas.  Sprinkle the rest of the cheese over the enchiladas and then spoon out the remaining crema sauce on top of the enchiladas.  Bake in the oven for 20-25 minutes, or until the cheese is melted and starting to brown.  Serve after allowing to cool slightly.
     

Turkey Pancetta Pot Pies

   

   

What to do with leftover Thanksgiving turkey is a problem I like to have - so much so that I bring it on myself.  I am one of those people (are there others like me?) who actually buys a bird a few pounds larger than I need just so that I have extra meat for leftovers.  I’m not talking about making sandwiches later Thanksgiving evening.  I’m talking about multiple meals in following days.  In recent years, I have made a Turkey Tetrazzini the day after Thanksgiving (see Cook to Grow, Nov ‘09).  This casserole with slivered almonds and parmesan provides a salty, nutty, toasted taste to turkey leftovers.  This year I added this Turkey Pancetta Pot Pie recipe for Saturday night.  Pot pie of course is one of the great comfort foods.  The recipe, originally from Giada di Laurentiis, adds the earthy, savory flavor of unsmoked pork to the mix.  This weekend, I used prosciutto instead of pancetta because that is what I had on hand.  I also saved time by using a premade pie crust instead of making a homemade crust.  After all, part of the comfort of the rest of the Thanksgiving weekend is no longer slaving in the kitchen.  Serves 4.  Next up, Turkey Enchiladas with a Chipotle Crema Sauce…

   

Ingredients:

2 tbsp olive oil

4 oz diced pancetta

1 tbsp butter

1 shallot, chopped

2 medium carrots, diced

1 1/2 tbsp dried thyme

½ tsp salt

¼ tsp pepper

¼ cup flour

2 ¾ cups low-sodium chicken broth

¼ cup cream

3 cups roasted turkey breast meat, cut into 1/2” pieces

1 cup frozen peas

1 sheet premade pie crust, thawed in refrigerator

   

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.  In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat.  Add the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 8 minutes.  Remove the pancetta to a plate lined with paper towels and add the butter to the pan.  Add the shallots, carrots and thyme.  Add the salt and pepper and cook until softened, about 6 minutes.  Stir in the flour to make a roux and cook one minute.  Add the chicken broth and whisk to remove the lumps.  Turn up the heat to high and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally until the mixture thickens, about 3 minutes.  Add the cooked pancetta, cream, turkey and peas and simmer a few minutes to heat through.  Ladle the mixture into ramekins.  Roll out the pie crust dough and with a round cutter or knife cut circles a little larger than the dishes.  Lay each on top of the filling in each dish and press down the edges slightly.  Cut a slit in the top of each to allow steam to escape.  Bake in the oven until the crust is golden and the filling is bubbling, about 25 minutes.  Remove, allow to cool slightly and serve.

   

Coconut-Lime Shrimp and Rice

  

    
The moon shown brightly this morning, as full as it was intense.  I had seen it the night before, high in the night’s sky, but now, setting in the western sky, it lit the pre-dawn morning so brilliantly that it cast shadows of light onto my feet.  I was up before the sun had yet to rise, and now was witnessing a different kind of brightness, that lit up the entire room, turning night nearly into day.  It was a drenching brightness, the kind of light that bathes something or someone.  And in that way, it reminded me of two weeks previously, of a moonlight dappling a shoulder, lighting a neck, providing enough light to provide a vision with a memory.  The light reminded me also of the sounds of that evening past, the crashing waves on a beach, the rhythmic throwing of the ocean onto the shore.  It also reminded me of the tastes of that island paradise, tropical fruits mixed with exotic Indian spices.  I don’t know if those feelings led me to choose this meal, or my menu choice was an attempt to rekindle those feelings, but the scents of coconut, lime, cumin and shrimp now filled my nose as it had filled me before.  Cooking can do that for you too.  Rekindling a memory, feelings associated with tastes and smells.  On any given night you can take yourself on a journey, to a place or a memory.  Coconut-lime did it for me, maybe it will for you too.  Thank you to Bobby Flay’s Boy Gets Grill for the shrimp journey and Darien Schmidt for a new favorite rice recipe.  Serves 2.

    

Ingredients:

1 cup chicken stock

½ tsp turmeric

¼ tsp saffron

1 clove garlic, minced

1 ½  tsp fish sauce

1 ½ tsp lemon juice

½ tsp ground cumin

Pinch dried crushed chili

1 ¾ cup coconut milk

1 cup basmati rice

zest of 1 lime

juice of 1 lime

1” piece of ginger, minced

4 tbsp canola oil

1 tbsp cilantro, chopped

2 serrano chiles, seeded and chopped

½ lb shrimp, shelled

    

Directions:

In a medium pot over high heat, mix the stock, turmeric, saffron, garlic, fish sauce, lemon juice, cumin and chili.  Stir and bring to a boil.  Add ¾ cup of coconut milk and the rice and return to a boil.  Stir, cover and lower the heat to a simmer.  Cook for 15 minutes.  Meanwhile, mix the remaining coconut milk, lime zest and juice, ginger, 2 tbsp oil, cilantro and chilis.  Add the shrimp and allow to marinate.  When the rice is done cooking, fluff the rice with a fork, turn the heat to warm and allow to steam. 

Heat a grill pan to medium-high heat and add 2 tbsp of oil.  Remove the shrimp and shake off the excess marinade.  When the oil is hot, add the shrimp, taking care not to crowd.  Cook a couple of minutes until browned on one side and then turn, browning the other side.  Cook in two batches if necessary, draining and wiping the pan in between to remove the excess liquid (which will steam the shrimp instead of browning and grilling).  Remove the shrimp to a plate and pour the remaining cooking oil over the shrimp.  Serve with the rice.

   

French Lentil Soup with Wild Boar Sausage

  

The Pyramids at Giza, the Acropolis of Athens, the Statue of Liberty - what do they all share?  They, along with French Gastronomy, are all United Nations world heritage designees.  What does cooking share with towering monuments of mankind?  They are all examples of outstanding cultural or natural importance to the common heritage of humanity.  That is a mouthful, but what makes French cuisine a mouthful worth international distinction?  It is a style that forsakes the heavy use of spices.  Indeed, the ingredients of French cuisine can be found at any local market:  onions, garlic, carrots, celery, thyme, chicken stock.  How could ingredients so plain create cuisine so masterful?  Certainly, we have the refined French technique.  We also have the delicate sauces.  But truly, why did the UN recently name French cuisine one of the world’s intangible treasures?  It cited French gastronomy as a “social custom aimed at celebrating the most important moments in the lives of individuals and groups."  I personally think that is code for drinking wine at lunch.  But of course, the French have given us so much more, and when I say course, I mean course.  They are recognized as the founders of a structured multi-course meal.  Isn’t appetizer a French word?  And don’t we think of a progression from light to heavy and then dessert?  And why do we put the silverware where we do?

  

For me tonight, French cuisine represented its most simple, rural roots.  I was not in search of a Michelin restaurant menu.  I did not desire a sauce with my filet.  Nor did I want even multi-courses.  I went to the plain, the rustic, the beautiful.  What is more beautiful than a leek?  An onion?  A garlic clove?  Is there a more perfect herb than thyme?  What is more fulfilling on a crisp fall day than a French green lentil, so delicate, yet so firm.  And can you inspire more of a connection with falling leaves, the forest ground, the smell of nuts than a wild boar?  Thus, tonight, there was no coconut milk, no chiles, no yogurt.  There was only the sight of the woods, the sound of a crunching boot walking through the woods, the smell of a soup at the end of a long walk.  Whether your knife blade is facing toward the plate or your water glass is on the right, you will be rewarded by this cultural treasure.  Serves 4.
    
Ingredients:
1/2 lb French green lentils
3 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 large leek, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp dried thyme leaves
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp ground pepper
2 stalks celery, diced
2 carrots, diced
1 1/2 quarts chicken stock
1 tbsp tomato paste
4 sausages, such as boar, duck or chicken
     
Directions:
Microwave a bowl of water to near boiling and add the lentils to soak.  Warm 2 tbsp of olive oil in a large pot over medium heat and add the onion, leek, garlic, thyme, cumin, salt and pepper.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft, about 15 minutes.   Add the celery and carrots and cook 5 minutes more.  Drain the lentils and add to the pot, along with the stock and tomato paste.  Bring to a boil, cover, and reduce the heat to a simmer.  Cook, stirring occasionally, for up to 1 hour.  Meanwhile, heat a saute pan over medium-high and add 1 tbsp oil.  When hot, add the sausages and brown quickly on all sides.  When the soup is largely done, add the sausages and cook for 5 minutes more.  Ladle into bowls and serve with grated Parmesan over the top if desired.
    

Turkish Lamb Stew

    

Sometimes, our view of a country is through the lens of history.  Events that occurred in the distant past can shape our current attitudes toward a place.  As a boy, I enjoyed reading stories about the Crusades.  Too young to appreciate the religious or geopolitical consequences of the Crusades, I nevertheless enjoyed tales of knights marching off on quests to exotic lands.  Part of their journey to the Holy Land took them through Turkey.  There, under the blazing sun, many weighed down by their chain mail wilted in the heat of parched plains.  Although, this curse turned into a blessing when the arrows of circling archers on horseback failed to penetrate western armor and the Crusaders were able to continue on to Jerusalem.  Such stories left me with the impression of Turkey as a hot and dry place, full of rocks and dust, a place to pass through on the way to somewhere else: Palestine in the case of the Crusaders or Persia in the time of Alexander and the Greeks. 

      

Our western view of Turkish cuisine may be similarly limited and outdated.  Just as the Crusaders no doubt spent little time lingering and taking in the nuances of local cuisine, modern western food connoisseurs have yet to tap the hidden treasures of Turkey.  Take Maras and Urfa peppers.  I had not even heard of these peppers until reading an article from our dearly departed Gourmet Magazine.  Apparently, Maras chiles come from the town of the same name in southeastern Turkey (not far from the path of the Crusaders).  Locals dry the chiles until they are shriveled, but not yet crispy.  The chiles retain a modest heat that is also sweet with a level of acidity.  While the Maras chile is deep red, the Urfa chile is purply-black with a smokier flavor.  Turks sprinkle both onto dishes such as eggs or pilaf, mix it into their kofte and meatballs, and even provide small dishes of it on Istanbul tables for whatever other seasoning uses you desire. 

    

The two peppers are an ingredient of this lamb stew, which actually reminded me of a Moroccan tagine with its cumin, coriander, cinnamon, broth, chickpeas and apricots.  One diversion was the simmering off of red wine vinegar, something I’ve never seen in Moroccan cuisine.  And then, of course, the Maras and Urfa peppers both mixed in during cooking and sprinkled on top when serving.  I encourage you to go on line and order some for yourself, or if you must, substitute paprika to get you through.  The delicate broth of these spices, lamb and apricots is delightful.  The Maras and Urfa will make it positively exotic.  Serves 4.

   

Ingredients:

1 lb lamb, cut into ¾” chunks

1 tbsp olive oil

1 medium onion, sliced

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 tbsp red wine vinegar

4 cups chicken stock

½ can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

2 tbsp dried apricots, chopped

1 tsp ground coriander

1 tsp ground cumin

1/2 tsp ground cinnamon

1/2 tsp Maras pepper

½ tsp Uras pepper

2 potatoes, peeled and cut into ½” chunks

2 tbsp oregano, chopped

2 tsp lemon juice

Rice

   

Directions:

Season the lamb with salt and pepper.  Heat the oil in a heavy pot over medium-high heat.  Add the lamb and brown on all sides.  Remove to a bowl.  Turn down the heat to medium and add the onions, cooking until soft.  Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more.  Add the vinegar and deglaze the bottom of the pot, scraping up the lamb bits.  Cook down the vinegar until evaporated.  Return the lamb to the pot and add the stock, chickpeas, apricot and spices.  Bring to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer, and cook uncovered for 1 hour.  Add the potatoes to the stew and cook until tender, about 30 minutes more.  Remove from the heat and stir in the oregano and lemon juice.  Season with salt.  Serve with rice, sprinkling some more pepper flakes over the dish. 

   

Martha's Scalloped Potatoes

  

   

Where do we put Martha Stewart in the Pantheon of chefs?  In our modern era of haute cuisine we may not think of her with Ripert, Ducasse or Keller.  In our current age of celebrity chefs we may not think of her with Batali, Flay or DeLaurentiis.  But there should be no doubt that she deserves a place in the Pantheon, to carry the metaphor, as one of the 12 Olympians of modern cooking.  Zeus, Poseidon, or Hades she may not be, but we can note that Dionysus, also one of the Olympians, is the god of wine, festivals and celebration.  We should also remember that not only has Martha been authoring cookbooks for a long time, one reason we may no longer think of her has a chef is her success in creating and diversifying her home living brand.  What’s more, Martha has been working many of our current themes for years: seasonal eating; healthy, fresh, simple ingredients; and simple mid-week meal menus.  Her cookbook What to Have for Dinner: 32 Easy Menus for Every Night of the Week published in 1996 does this to the nines.  This recipe for gratin potatoes is my go-to potato accompaniment for lamb chops.  It avoids the fat and calories of heavy cream and butter-based gratins.  Yet, it is still full of flavor with its use of stock, herbs and Gruyere.  Make it part of your fall and winter menus.  Serves 2.

   

Ingredients:

3 Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and sliced to 1/8 inch thickness

1/3 cup grated Gruyere cheese

1/2 tsp olive oil

¼ tsp dried thyme leaves

¼ tsp salt

¼ cup chicken stock

   

Directions:

Heat oven to 400 degrees F.  Butter a small baking dish.  In a mixing bowl, combine the potatoes, half of the cheese, oil thyme and salt.  Arrange the potatoes in the baking dish, overlapping flat if desired.  Pour the stock over the potatoes and sprinkle the remaining cheese on top.  Bake the potatoes until tender and starting to brown, about 45 minutes.

   

Celery Root Puree

   

    
I'm a puree kind of guy.  Seems silly to say, and I imagine read.  Is that an oxymoron: puree and guy?  In some sense it couldn't be more manly.  What does the stereotypical guy want?  Meat and potatoes.  Purees provide us away to serve more interesting potatoes with our meat.  As fancy as I sometimes get, or want to serve, I still have a natural predilection toward some kind of supporting starch.  Maybe it's in our DNA, like the need and therefore taste for salt and fat.  Or it could be nurture.  I grew up in the Midwest with three squares a day.  And what more puts the square in a meal than meat and potatoes?  Although, while this recipe does contain potatoes, not all of my puree suggestions do. For instance, I like to pair a pea puree with seared scallops.  I also have recipes for cauliflower puree.  Indeed, purees provide that dual opportunity to provide a vegetable, and do so in a form and taste that is more savory, more satisfying.  To that S alliteration I might also add silky.  And now also celery root.  Celery root is related to celery, and has hints of celery flavoring, but it is a smoother, more subtle flavor (more Ss, I know).  It pairs wonderfully with potatoes and cream.  I served it with pan-seared duck breast and and a chery port sauce and was rewarded.  So, next time you want to get fancy for your man (or yourself), and sneak some vegetables in too, think of this puree recipe from Food & Wine 2006.  It will certainly satisfy!  Serves 2.
    
Ingredients:
1 large celery root, peeled and diced

2 Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and diced

1 garlic clove, diced

1 cup heavy cream

1 cup whole milk

salt/pepper

    

Directions:

In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the celery root, potato, garlic, cream and milk and bring to a boil.  Reduce the heat and simmer for 40 minutes.  Drain into a colander and reserve the liquid.  Puree the mixture in a blender.  Add back in such liquid as necessary to form a soft puree consistency.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

   

Sauteed Broccoli with Quinoa

   
Meat, meat, meat, do we always have to eat meat?  For me, the answer is usually yes.  I like it, and heck, we didn’t get to the top of the food chain by eating greens.  But, of course, many sensitive people either limit the amount of meat they eat or forgo it altogether.  Some evenings, even I just want to get in touch with my inner Gwyneth Paltrow and go green, organic or whatever she is.  Ok, I do not have an inner Paltrow.  I can’t eat anything even affectionately called GOOP, and MellowLOVE Green Juice just will not take me to a higher place, even with the Himalayan salt. 

Be that as it may, I suppose I am still pretty far afield of the meat and potatoes crowd by proposing a dinner meal of quinoa with sautéed broccoli on top.  Quinoa, as I’ve written before, actually has some taste to it, especially in blends with nuts, raisins, and salts.  It’s also healthy and a great source of protein.  Broccoli, I like, but there isn’t really anything I can eat just steamed.  I’m not here for that.  So, I propose sautéing it up with some softened shallot, garlic and a little chicken stock.  Put together, it will actually get you through the evening and make you feel better.  Serves 2.

   

Ingredients:

2 tbsps olive oil

2 shallots, diced

2 tbsp slivered almonds

1 cup quinoa

2 1/2 cups chicken stock

2 tbsp golden raisins

1 clove garlic, diced

2 servings of broccoli florets

salt/pepper

1/4 cup of grated Parmesan cheese

  

Directions:

In a small pot over medium heat, warm 1 tbsp oil and add ½ of the diced shallots.  Soften a few minutes and then add the almonds and quinoa.  Stir and allow to cook a minute or two.  Add 2 cups of stock and the raisins.  Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer.  Cover and cook for 15 minutes.  Meanwhile, in a medium sauté pan over medium heat, warm 1 tbsp of oil and add the other ½ of shallots.  Soften for a few minutes and then add the garlic.  Cook a minute more and then add the remaining ½ cup of stock.  Bring to a simmer, add the broccoli and cover.  Cook for 5 minutes or more to the desired doneness. Season with salt and pepper if desired. When the quinoa is done, fluff and plate.  Top with the broccoli, including the remaining stock and the cheese.  Serve.

     

Tuna with Wasabi Potatoes and a Ginger-Soy Vinaigrette

  

Some days are for Panang curry and some for P.F. Changs.  Some days are for traveling to exotic locales, and some days are for going to the mall.  Some days are for authentic and some days are for, well, ginger-soy vinaigrettes.  I can’t imagine anything like that exists in nature, or any authentic Asian kitchen.  And yet, these tastes still provide us enjoyment.  That doesn’t mean they are plain or boring.  They can be vibrant and exciting, pairing things in ways that satisfy our sights and senses.  Cooking doesn’t always need to be an expression of snobbery, or elitism or any other –ism that separates or divides.  Cooking authentic recipes is important for its own sake, as a way to learn, appreciate and value things that are unique and special.  But we ourselves are also unique and special, so even if something is more common at an American mall than an Asian food stall, it’s ok to eat that once in a while too if it makes us happy and keeps us interested.  Take this recipe combination for example.  It pairs wasabi mashed potatoes with a ginger-soy vinaigrette topping seared tuna.  I can’t imagine that any true Asian cook makes mashed potatoes, much less adds wasabi too them.  But why not, this is still America, we can do what we want.  And tuna, tired of delicate, boring or just not that exciting?  Hit it with a bold vinaigrette zinging with ginger and soy.  Tomorrow, you can prepare a sauce the French way, or steam things the Japanese way.  But tonight, Honey grab the keys, we’re going to the mall.  Serves 2.

   

Ingredients:

2 potatoes, peeled and cubed

2 tbsp milk

2 tbsp butter, melted butter

1 tsp wasabi powder

2 tbsp plus ½ cup canola oil

2 tuna steaks

2 tbsp soy sauce

2 tbsp rice vinegar

1 clove garlic

2 tbsp lime juice

1 tsp minced ginger

2 tbsp cilantro, finely chopped

salt/pepper

   

Directions:

Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil and add the potatoes.  Reduce to a light boil and cook for 15 minutes.  When the potatoes are done cooking, drain and run through a ricer and back into the hot pot.  Add the milk and butter and stir.  Add more milk if desired for a smoother consistency.  Mix the wasabi powder with 2 tsp of water and then stir into potatoes.  Season further if desired, cover and keep warm.  Add 2 tbsp of oil to a nonstick pan over medium-high heat.  Season the tuna with salt and pepper and then when the oil is smoking add to the pan.  Sear the tuna on one side for a couple of minutes and then turn and sear a couple of minutes more and then remove.  Meanwhile, mix the soy, vinegar, garlic, lime juice and ginger.  Mix the cilantro into vinaigrette.  Slice the tuna and plate over the mashed potatoes.  Top with the vinaigrette.