To be the American in Abruzzo is to be exposed. Stone hewed hill towns perch isolated over open plains. Wide open expanses allowing the Apennine mountain air to crisp and crackle, whether in the sound of a stone underneath on a cobble walk or a rustling grass carpeting the distance. Traveling to this rural region of Italy in the mountains east of Rome you can find a small room in an ancient castle town, or a secret bend in the river in a national park, but you cannot hide. At some point, you must come out into the sparseness, the loneliness that pervades a stark and rustic existence.
Similarly, you cannot hide when you cook. The food will always reveal whether you used the freshest ingredients, the proper techniques or are trying to hide behind presentation or distraction. Abrezzesse food is simple and hearty, but more importantly it is pure, wholly reflecting the ingredients. No butter and cheese dolloped in, no truffles sprinkled, no fried breading coated, just wild game of the countryside, cooked in wine of the hillside, with herbs of the mountainside. These are the feelings and images that resonate as the air turns cool and the dry fall winds start to blow. Try this recipe to fortify yourself against the coming chill. Serves 2.
Similarly, you cannot hide when you cook. The food will always reveal whether you used the freshest ingredients, the proper techniques or are trying to hide behind presentation or distraction. Abrezzesse food is simple and hearty, but more importantly it is pure, wholly reflecting the ingredients. No butter and cheese dolloped in, no truffles sprinkled, no fried breading coated, just wild game of the countryside, cooked in wine of the hillside, with herbs of the mountainside. These are the feelings and images that resonate as the air turns cool and the dry fall winds start to blow. Try this recipe to fortify yourself against the coming chill. Serves 2.
Ingredients:
2 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, sliced
2 strips of bacon, diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 dried thyme
1/4 tsp dried oregano
1/4 cup flour
1 lb lamb leg or shoulder, cut into 1 inch cubes
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup chicken stock
1 egg, beaten
1 tsp lemon juice
1/4 cup parsley, chopped
salt/pepper
Directions:
In a heavy dutch oven or other enameled cast iron pot, heat the oil over medium heat and saute the onion and bacon 4 minutes. Add the garlic and herbs and cook a further minute. Season the lamb with salt and pepper and dredge through the flour. Add to the pot and brown on all sides. Turn the heat up to medium-high and add the wine, scraping the bits off the bottom of the pot to deglaze. When the wine is simmering, add the chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Turn down the heat and cover, continuing to simmer for up to an hour. Remove the lamb and onion mixture to a bowl, retaining the liquid in the pot. Whisk in the egg and lemon juice and heat without allowing to boil. Return the lamb mixture to the pot and stir to coat. Adjust seasoning to taste. Plate the lamb stew and sprinkle with parsley if desired.
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