Horseradish Crusted Salmon

  

  
Let me first say that I don't particularly like salmon.  For many years it was the "in" fish, and it certainly is a healthy source of protein.  I just don't like it's taste, simple as that.  Nor do I like horseradish.  Too much for me in whatever you might call that taste.  So, why would I prepare a dish that by all indications I doubly would not like?  No, this is not a posting about growing yourself and your tastes by forcing yourself to eat something you know you don't like.  While I always support trying something new, and sometimes I even follow my own advice, I would never advocate purposely eating something you don't like.  That's not what life, at least through cooking, is about.  But, sometimes it's not about you, it's about your partner in dining pleasure.  The gift is in the giving as they say, and sometimes that means making something you don't like and don't eat just to please another.  
   
Don't get me wrong, I like many kinds of fish, and several kinds of vegetables that others don't like, such as broccoli and cauliflower.  And, indeed, when preparing asparagus or artichokes (also not high on my list) for a guest, I will prepare a side of green beans for myself.  That way everyone is happy.  That, however, becomes a more limited option with a main course, in time, trouble and expense.  For that, the second message of this post is to cook in a way that helps you with taste.  For me, that means making salmon not taste as much like salmon.  I do that by putting on a crust.  A sliced potato crust is always nice on salmon.  Julia Childs and Jacque Pepin have a nice recipe for potato crusted salmon that I make sometimes.  Giada de Laurentiis encrusts fish with purple potatoes for added color as well as taste.  As that technique adds a flavor that virtually all like, and minimizes another that some don't, so does a horseradish crust mellow things out.  Furthermore, the cooking process will also mellow the horseradish.  That on a bed of cucumbers and the mustard sauce as found in this Gary Danko recipe provides a lovely combination.  It served as the second course of a recent dinner party and I urge you to try it any time.  Serves 2.
    
Ingredients:
1/2 shallot, minced
1/4 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup fish stock
1/4 cup clam juice
1 sprig fresh thyme
bay leaf
1 cucumber, peeled and thinly sliced
1 tsp kosher salt
1 3/4 tsp chives, chopped
1 3/4 tsp dill, chopped
1 1/2 tbsp creme fraiche 
1/2 tsp lemon juice
1/2 tsp whole grain mustard

4 inch length of salmon filet, skin removed, cut into 1 inch widths

1/4 cup + 1/2 tsp horseradish

1 egg white
2 tbsp heavy cream

3 tbsp butter

2 tbsp vegetable oil
   
Directions:
In a sauce pan over medium-high heat combine the shallot, wine, stock, clam juice, thyme and bay leaf.  Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer, cooking until reduced by 2/3.  Meanwhile, combine the cucumber and salt in a bowl and set aside for 15 minutes.  In another bowl, mix 1 1/2 tsp chives, 1 1/2 tsp dill, 1 tbsp creme fraiche and the lemon juice.  Leave out to come to room temperature.  In another bowl, mix the mustard, 1/2 tsp of horseradish, 1/2 tbsp of creme fraiche, 1/4 tsp of dill and 1/4 tsp of chives.  Set aside.  Ready the salmon by rolling it, thick part first, into medallions.  Secure by running a toothpick or skewer horizontally through the medallion starting with the thin flap.  Combine 1/4 cup of the horseradish and the egg white and spoon a dollop of the mixture on top of each salmon medallion, smoothing to cover.  Drain the water from the cucumber and salt and stir in the creme fraiche and lemon mixture.  When the sauce is reduced, stir in the cream and return to a boil.  Whisk in the butter, small pieces at a time.  When fully mixed, strain the sauce, pressing on the shallots to obtain all of the sauce, and return to the sauce pan.   Stir the mustard mixture into the sauce and keep warm.  Heat the oil in a non-stick saute pan over medium-high heat.  Place the salmon in the pan, horseradish side down, cover and sear to form a crust, about 2 to 3 minutes.  Turn the salmon, cover and cook a few more minutes.  Plate by laying down a bed of the cucumber mixture.  Place 2 salmon medallions on top and then spoon the sauce on top and around the plate.