“Elegant and Easy” was the premise of a recent episode of Giada De Laurentiis’ Giada at Home. Our ubiquitous celebrity chef is beloved because of her approachability, both in her on screen presence and her recipes. This recipe is certainly approachable in preparation and ingredients. It could also just as easily appear in a Gourmet Today cookbook that extends Gourmet expectations to meals prepared in 30 minutes or less. You might also find it in Bon Appétit: Fast, Easy, Fresh described as “fast enough for a weeknight, special enough for a weekend.” Special, elegant, gourmet, bon appétit: what do these words mean to us and why are they used? Of course, we all want to feel special, whether it’s the man on the couch eating nachos and drinking a beer, or the woman pouring a glass of wine and eating a piece of after dinner chocolate. The former reflects how we consider ourselves special when we eat traditional comfort food. In a sense, we are giving ourselves a hug, albeit in flannel. We can also give ourselves an embrace, and feel special in that different way too. What makes a hug an embrace? Certainly, gourmet and bon appétit play upon our associations with French pretensions. Anything with tarragon would fit that bill. But this recipe goes beyond what is pretentious, and into what is truly elegant. This recipe is simple, not garish, refined, not overdone, it is tasteful in both senses. That is achieved with the cipollini onions. Sautéing them and then including them with the braising liquid brings out their sweetness, and contributes to the savory nature of this dish. The tarragon, I would suggest in more modest proportions than Giada, provides that brightness that lemon can, without introducing an acid. Garlic, white wine, stock, it is beautiful in its simplicity, and simply beautiful. Serves 2.
Ingredients:
2 boneless, skinned chicken breasts
¼ cup flour plus 1 tbsp flour
2 tbsp olive oil
8 cipollini onions, peeled
1 clove garlic, minced
½ cup dry white wine
1 ½ cups stock
2 tbsp fresh tarragon, chopped
salt/pepper
1 tbsp butter
Directions:
In a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat, warm the oil. Season the chicken with salt and pepper and dust in the flour. When the oil is hot, add the chicken and brown on each side, about 8 minutes. Turn down the heat to medium and add the onions. Soften and caramelize the onions, stirring occasionally, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook another minute to release its flavor. Add the white wine and deglaze the pan, scraping up the browned bits. Turn up the heat to high and add the stock, chicken and tarragon. Bring to a boil, cover, turn down the heat to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small pot over medium heat, add the butter and melt. Whisk in the flour to form a roux and cook for at least a minute. When the chicken is done, remove it to a plate and cover. Add the roux to the broth, whisking in until smooth. Turn up the heat if necessary to maintain a simmer. Simmer the broth for several minutes more until thickened. Serve the sauce over the chicken with the onions.
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