Scallops with Viet Cauliflower Puree

 

In most cases the best way to do something takes a great deal of effort. Have you ever looked at recipes for pho broth? They usually involve marrow bones and hours of simmering, something I just haven't yet been willing to do myself. But there are some things you can do in an instant, like a thunderclap, that will totally transform a dish.  For example, some stores now carry pre-made pho broth. No, I'm not trying to say just make pho with pre-made pho broth. That would be heresy, although I do prepare sauces regularly with pre-made chicken and veal broths. But the addition of pho broth to other things, such as purees, can impart all of the delicate, exotic flavors we love in pho.

I like to serve scallops with a puree. Sometimes I make a pea puree, other times cauliflower. The recipe is simple and quick, involving softened onions, garlic, stock, and cauliflower. This evening, however, I wanted something more delicate, something more interesting, something to float my senses away. Isn't that the purpose of an Asian water garden, to gather senses in the middle of a beautiful space: a gurgling of water, the scent of a blossom, the occasional flutter of a fish or croak of a frog, flickers from a lantern. That is what I sought this evening for my puree: less savory, more seductive. By using pho broth, in one simple step I produced the scents of star anise, clove, coriander, cilantro, all of the things that enter your conscious through your sense of smell before your sense of taste. Combine with a chive oil and simply sauteed scallops will transport you away. Serves 2.

   

Ingredients:

5 tbsp vegetable oil
2 shallots, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 head of cauliflower florets
2 cups chicken pho broth
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 bunch chives, chopped with 4 stalks reserved
salt/pepper
10 scallops
    
Directions:
In a medium sauce pan over medium-low heat, add 1 tbsp vegetable and soften the shallots. After a few minutes, add the garlic to release the flavor. Increase the heat to high, add the cauliflower florets and cook for one minute. Add the pho broth and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook 10 minutes or until the cauliflower is soft when stuck with a fork.
In a small sauce pan over medium-high heat, heat the extra virgin olive oil until shimmering. Add the chive, stir and turn off the heat. 

Heat 2 tbsp of vegetable oil in a large nonstick pan over medium-high heat. When just about to smoke, season the scallops with salt and pepper and add 5 to the pan. Allow to sear on one side for a few minutes and then turn. Cook 2 to 3 minutes more and then remove to a covered plate to keep warm. If needed, add the remaining 2 tbsp of vegetable oil to the pan and heat. Cook the remaining scallops the same way. Meanwhile, remove the cauliflower with a slotted spoon to a food processor and puree. Add enough of the broth if needed to loosen to a desired consistency. Spoon the puree to plates, rinse, and puree the chive oil. Plate the cooked scallops and then drizzle with the chive oil and top with reserved  chive stalks.