Penne with Cauliflower Ragu

  

  
Spanish men live with their mothers until they marry.  Italians do this too, and maybe the French, but I don't really know about the French.  Spanish men, and I'm talking full grown men in their 20's, macho by day, who come whom to mama at night, live with their mothers until they find a new mother in their wife.  This is not to say that they are mama's boys.  That is an American phrase, appropriately reflecting American men who are mere actual reflections of their mothers.  No, a Spanish man who lives with his mother is not a reflection of his mother.  He is a man that loves his mother, with all his heart and soul.  Perhaps, in America, the best example of this is a father who loves his children with all his heart and soul.  That does not make him weak, or a woman, or a child.  He is a man.  A man who knows how to love, and he gives that love to his sons.  Completely, wholely, proudly.  No, not proudly, because pride is a reflection of how you feel in the presence or thought of others.  He loves them totally whether others are watching or not.
What does this have to do with cauliflower ragu?  One of my proudest (yes, that word, pride)moments as a cook came when I hosted a dinner party for parents of a classmate of my son's.  The father was from Spain.  To honor him and my appreciation for things Spanish, I prepared dishes of Spain: pork, potatoes, and Coliflor con Ajos y Pimenton (Cauliflower with Garlic and Paprika).  The cauliflower dish was that ideal blend of roasted savoriness.  That  taste you get when you combine garlic and onion, pine nuts and oil and heat.  The magic of caramelization, smokiness, nuttiness and roasted goodness.  At the end of the evening, when he was at the door on his way out, he of course thanked me as any polite guest would do.  But then he blessed me, not really, but in his words gave me the highest praise I can imagine, saying, "I am going to tell my mother about this meal."  Can there really be higher praise for food?  
So, is this that recipe?  No, not this time.  You will have to wait for that.  The recipe below is from Mario Batali's new Molto Gusto cookbook.  Don't get me wrong, his Pennette with Cauliflower Ragu tastes good, and my kids actually ate it.  Although, they will eat anything with enough oil, cheese and butter in it.  Which, I guess explains the difference between this recipe and that.  In the Italian way, Mario has us make the ragu, and then like a risotto, add butter and cheese at the end.  That may be fine for short-grained rice, but Mario, why did you have us simmer the cauliflower leaves for 20 minutes in advance?  Any delicateness in that flavor is overcome by the oil, butter and cheese.  Add bread crumbs and you have everyone's favorite casserole.  And on that basis, I offer this recipe.  It is good.  You will enjoy it.  But the Cauliflower con Ajos that Franco's mother would appreciate, that will be for another time.
    
Ingredients:
1 medium cauliflower
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 medium white onion, diced
3 garlic cloves, minced
salt
1 tsp red pepper flakes
4 tbsp butter
1 lb penne
3/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1/2 cup bread crumbs
1/2 tsp dried rosemary (or 1 tsp fresh)
    
Directions:
Cut the cauliflower in half.  Cut off the leaves and reserve.  Cut around the core, cutting off the florets.  Separate the florets and cut into bite size pieces.  Cut the core into large chunks.  Combine the core, onion, garlic and leaves with salt to taste in a large pot over medium heat.  Stir and cook for about 3 minutes.  Reduce the heat and cook, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes.  
Add the cauliflower florets, red pepper flakes, and 1 cup of water and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, then reduce to a simmer.  Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes.  Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to boil and cook the penne, 12 minutes or until al dente.  After the cauliflower has cooked, remove the core chunks and the leaves so that only the florets remain.  Add the butter and stir to melt.  Reserve 1 cup of the pasta liquid and then drain the pasta.  Add the cauliflower ragu to the drained pasta and stir to mix.  Add some of the cooking liquid if desired to loosen the sauce.  Stir in the cheese, bread crumbs and rosemary.  Season to taste.  Serve.